Winter Skin Care: What Dermatologists Say Is Worth Buying

Picture a shopper in a drugstore aisle on a cold evening, knuckles cracked and shins itching under wool pants. In one hand is a plain tub of petroleum jelly. In the other is a slim jar with a glossy label, a long list of botanicals and a promise of “barrier repair.”

The heater has been running for weeks. The shopper wants relief, not a gamble. Which jar is the better buy?

The answer, according to dermatology groups and the research they lean on, is less about the brand and more about what is inside, what the label is allowed to claim and how you use it.

What do dermatologists recommend for dry winter skin?

The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) publishes a practical list of dermatologists’ tips for relieving dry skin, last updated in January 2026. Most of it costs nothing:

• Keep baths and showers to 5 to 10 minutes, in warm rather than hot water.
• Close the bathroom door to hold in steam, and pat skin dry instead of rubbing.
• Use a gentle cleanser, and only where you need it.
• Apply moisturizer while skin is still damp, after washing your hands and whenever skin feels dry.
• Run a humidifier, especially in the bedroom at night, and clean it regularly to prevent mold.
• Wear gloves for dishes, gardening and cold, dry weather.
• Choose loose cotton clothing and keep wool or polyester from rubbing directly on dry skin.

The habits matter because no product can outwork a 25-minute hot shower twice a day. The shopping list comes second.

Should you buy a cream, a lotion or an ointment?

The AAD says to choose creams or ointments over lotions for dry skin. Lotions are thinner and lighter, which feels pleasant but tends to do less for skin that is already flaking.

Ointments are the heaviest. They can feel greasy on the face or hands during the day, so many people use a cream in the morning and an ointment at night or on problem spots like heels, elbows and knuckles.

If you are comparing products for the season, our roundup of fall beauty buys worth the money covers which categories tend to earn their price.

Which moisturizer ingredients actually have evidence behind them?

A 2017 review in the journal Clinical Medicine & Research, “The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis,” sorts moisturizer ingredients into three working groups. Knowing them makes any ingredient list easier to read.

Occlusives: the seal

Occlusives are mostly oil-based. They form a water-repellent layer over the skin that blocks moisture from escaping. The review reports that petrolatum, at a concentration of at least 5%, can reduce water loss through the skin by more than 98%. Lanolin, mineral oil and silicones such as dimethicone reduce it by 20% to 30%.

Humectants: the water magnets

Humectants draw water into the skin’s outer layer. The review lists glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, panthenol and sorbitol among them, and notes that 10% urea has been shown to reduce water loss in people with atopic dermatitis (eczema).

Emollients: the gap fillers

Emollients are mostly lipids that fill the tiny gaps between skin cells, making skin feel smoother. Ceramides belong here. The review notes that ceramides make up about half of the lipids in the skin’s outer layer and help restore its barrier.

The AAD’s own shopping list lines up with this research. It names jojoba oil, dimethicone, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, lanolin, mineral oil, petrolatum and shea butter as ingredients to look for in a moisturizer.

Ingredient type	What it does	Examples on a label
Occlusive	Seals moisture in	Petrolatum, mineral oil, lanolin, dimethicone
Humectant	Pulls water into skin	Glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid, panthenol
Emollient	Smooths and fills gaps	Ceramides, fatty acids, shea butter, jojoba oil

Many good moisturizers combine all three. A humectant without an occlusive on top can feel nice and then fade fast in dry indoor air.

Is an expensive moisturizer better than a cheap one?

The best available evidence says price is not the deciding factor. A Cochrane review of emollients and moisturisers for eczema, published in 2017, pooled 77 studies with 6,603 participants. It found moisturizers led to fewer eczema flares and reduced the need for steroid creams.

When the reviewers compared products against each other, they did not find reliable evidence that one moisturizer is better than another. The review focused on eczema, not everyday winter dryness, so treat it as a strong hint rather than the final word for every skin type.

For shoppers, the practical reading is simple: a fragrance-free cream or ointment built on proven ingredients, used consistently, is a sound buy at almost any price. That plain tub in our shopper’s hand is not a compromise.

How do you read a moisturizer label?

A few rules about what a label must say, and what it does not have to prove, go a long way.

Ingredients are listed by amount, mostly

Under federal labeling rules for cosmetics, 21 CFR 701.3, ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance, so the first few make up most of the product. There is a catch: ingredients present at 1% or less may be listed in any order after the rest. A trendy extract near the end of the list may be there in a very small amount.

“Fragrance-free” and “unscented” are not the same

The AAD recommends fragrance-free products for dry skin and warns that “unscented” products may contain chemicals that mask odors, which can still irritate sensitive skin.

What to skip on dry skin

The AAD advises avoiding products that contain alcohol (hand sanitizer is the exception), fragrance, including deodorant soaps, and retinoids while skin is dry and irritated. If you use retinol for other reasons, our guide to retinol for mature skin explains why many people stop and how irritation fits in. If a lip balm stings or tingles, the AAD says to switch to another one.

Why do you still need sunscreen in winter?

Cold, gray days feel like a break from sun protection. Dermatologists say otherwise. In an AAD survey released in February 2024, nearly 1 in 5 adults did not know you can get sunburned in winter, and about 1 in 7 did not know that snow, water and sand reflect UV rays.

The same survey found that only 13% of Americans planned to use sun protection on cold-weather walks or hikes, 6% during outdoor games, exercise or sports, and 4% while shoveling snow.

Board-certified dermatologist Dawn Davis, MD, FAAD, said in the AAD release that even on cloudy days, up to 80% of the sun’s harmful UV rays can get through the clouds. The AAD recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher on all skin not covered by clothing, reapplied every two hours or after sweating.

How do you read a sunscreen label?

Sunscreen is regulated differently from moisturizer. The FDA regulates sunscreens as nonprescription drugs, which is why they carry a Drug Facts label with active ingredients and directions. Here is what to check:

• Broad spectrum: protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Not all sunscreens are broad spectrum, so look for the words.
• SPF: the FDA says to choose at least SPF 15; the AAD recommends 30 or higher.
• Water resistant: labels must say whether the product stays effective for 40 or 80 minutes of swimming or sweating. The FDA says there is no such thing as “waterproof” sunscreen.
• Expiration date: if a sunscreen has none, the FDA says to consider it expired three years after purchase.

That last point matters in October. The half-used bottle from a summer beach trip may still be good, or may not. Check before it goes in your winter bag.

A moisturizer with SPF can cover both jobs on the face in the morning, as long as it is broad spectrum and meets the SPF level you want. Heavier ointments and night creams usually do not include sunscreen, so they are not a substitute for daytime protection.

When should you see a dermatologist about dry skin?

Most winter dryness responds to the habits and products above. The AAD says to see a board-certified dermatologist if dry skin continues despite these steps, because dryness can be linked to conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis or kidney disease. Left untreated, both the dryness and the underlying condition can get worse.

The AAD also advises asking a dermatologist before using anti-itch creams, and telling them if any product burns, stings or causes irritation. This article is general consumer information, not medical advice, so talk to a licensed professional about your own skin.

What is the short winter skin care shopping list?

1. A fragrance-free cream or ointment with a mix of occlusives, humectants and emollients.
2. Petroleum jelly or a similar ointment for lips, heels and knuckles.
3. A gentle cleanser.
4. A broad-spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher, that is within its expiration date.
5. Gloves, and a humidifier if your home air is very dry.

Back in that drugstore aisle, the shopper can put the glossy jar down without guilt. The plain tub, applied to damp skin after a short, warm shower, does the job the research supports. Add a sunscreen for the morning walk, and winter skin care stops being a guessing game.

Frequently asked questions

Is Vaseline good for dry winter skin?

Petroleum jelly is petrolatum, an occlusive ingredient. A 2017 review reports petrolatum at 5% or more can reduce water loss through the skin by more than 98%, and the AAD lists petrolatum among ingredients to look for. It works best applied to damp skin and can feel greasy, so many people use it at night or on spots like lips and heels.

Is hyaluronic acid enough on its own in winter?

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that draws water into the skin. In dry indoor air, a humectant works better when paired with an occlusive or emollient that helps hold the moisture in, which is why many moisturizers combine them.

Do I need sunscreen on cloudy winter days?

Yes, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. A dermatologist quoted by the AAD said up to 80% of the sun's UV rays can penetrate clouds, and snow reflects UV. The AAD recommends broad-spectrum, water-resistant SPF 30 or higher on exposed skin.

How often should I moisturize in winter?

The AAD suggests moisturizing several times a day as needed, including right after bathing while skin is damp, after washing your hands and whenever skin feels dry.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology: Dermatologists' tips for relieving dry skin
• American Academy of Dermatology: Survey shows sun protection lacking in winter (Feb. 2024)
• Clinical Medicine & Research (2017): The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review
• Cochrane: Emollients and moisturisers for eczema (2017)
• Cornell Legal Information Institute: 21 CFR 701.3, designation of ingredients
• U.S. FDA: Sunscreen: How to help protect your skin from the sun

By the Trending Consumerism editorial desk (Jane Satchel), edited by Rob P., Editor and Publisher. Every fact in this story links to its source. See our editorial standards and corrections policy.